Replacing a central air conditioner is one of the larger purchases most homeowners make, and it's easy to feel rushed when the old system has just died in August. This guide explains the decisions that matter most so you can compare proposals with confidence. When you request a quote through this site, your request goes to an independent HVAC contracting company licensed by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR). We are a referral service and do not install equipment ourselves.
Start with a load calculation, not the old unit's size
The most common mistake in residential HVAC is assuming the new system should match the old one's tonnage. Homes change: windows get replaced, insulation is added, rooms are finished, trees grow or come down. The industry standard for sizing is an ACCA Manual J load calculation, which estimates how much heat your specific house gains and loses based on its square footage, orientation, insulation, windows, duct location and local design temperatures.
Why it matters:
- An oversized system cools the air quickly but shuts off before it removes much humidity. The house can feel cool and clammy, and the equipment cycles on and off more, which adds wear.
- An undersized system may run constantly on the hottest afternoons and still fall behind.
Ask every contractor how they sized the system. A written load calculation is a good sign.
Understanding efficiency ratings (SEER2)
Since January 1, 2023, the U.S. Department of Energy has rated central air conditioners and heat pumps with the updated SEER2 metric, which uses test conditions closer to real installations than the old SEER rating. Texas is in DOE's Southern region, where minimum efficiency standards for new split-system air conditioners are higher than in northern states. Any new system a reputable contractor installs will meet those minimums, so the real question is whether a higher-efficiency system is worth the extra cost for your home.
Higher SEER2 systems often use two-stage or variable-speed compressors. Besides saving energy, they tend to run longer at lower output, which can improve humidity control and evenness between rooms. Whether the savings pay back the higher price depends on how much you run the system, your electric rate, and how long you'll stay in the home. Ask contractors to show the expected difference in operating cost for the options they quote.
The refrigerant transition
Under the federal AIM Act, the EPA has been phasing down high-global-warming-potential refrigerants. New residential split systems are moving from R-410A to lower-GWP refrigerants such as R-454B and R-32. If you're replacing a system now, ask which refrigerant the new equipment uses, and make sure the indoor coil and outdoor unit are a matched pair designed for the same refrigerant. Mixing an old indoor coil with a new outdoor unit is generally not appropriate, especially across refrigerant types.
If your current system uses R-22, it is at least roughly 15 years old, and recharging it is costly because R-22 is no longer produced in the U.S.
Matched systems and AHRI certificates
Efficiency ratings apply to specific combinations of outdoor unit, indoor coil and sometimes furnace or air handler. Ask for the AHRI reference number for the exact combination being quoted. It confirms the rated SEER2 and capacity, and utility rebate programs often require it.
Don't ignore the ducts
A new system connected to leaky, undersized or crushed ductwork won't deliver its rated performance. In many Central Texas homes, ducts run through hot attics, so leaks there pull in superheated air or dump cooled air where it does no good. A good replacement proposal should mention the duct system, even if only to say it was inspected and is in acceptable shape. See our ductwork and air quality page for more.
Permits and inspections
Many Texas cities require a mechanical permit for HVAC replacement, and some require an inspection afterward. The licensed contractor normally pulls the permit. Rules vary by city, and unincorporated areas may have different requirements. Each of our town pages notes the local permitting office we could identify. Ask your contractor whether a permit is required for your address and whether it's included in the quote.
Rebates and incentives
Some local electric utilities have offered rebates for qualifying high-efficiency air conditioners and heat pumps. Program rules, amounts and funding change from year to year, and some programs run out of money mid-year. Check your utility's current program before you sign, since some require pre-approval or a participating contractor. Your town page lists the electric provider for that area where we could verify it.
The federal 25C energy-efficient home improvement tax credit, which covered some heat pumps and central air conditioners, was ended for equipment placed in service after December 31, 2025. Confirm your situation with a tax professional.
Comparing quotes
When you have more than one proposal, compare:
- Equipment: brand, model numbers, tonnage, SEER2 and the AHRI number.
- Scope: Is the indoor coil or air handler being replaced? New line set? New thermostat? Drain pan and float switch? Duct repairs? Haul-away of old equipment? Permit?
- Warranty: both the manufacturer's parts warranty (often requiring online registration) and the contractor's own labor warranty, in writing.
- License information: TDLR rules require the contractor's affiliated license number on proposals and invoices. You can verify any license on TDLR's website.
A proposal that's much cheaper than the others often leaves something out. A much more expensive one should explain what you're getting for the difference.
Heat pump or air conditioner plus furnace?
Many Central Texas homes pair an electric air conditioner with a gas furnace or electric resistance heat. A heat pump does both heating and cooling with one outdoor unit and can heat far more efficiently than resistance strips. Whether it makes sense for you depends on your heating fuel, rates, and how cold your area gets. See our heat pump page for a fuller comparison.
How a request works
- Fill out the form with your town and a note about the current system (age, problems, whether it still runs).
- We send your request to an independent, licensed and insured HVAC contractor that serves your area.
- The contractor contacts you to schedule a visit, measure the home and provide a written proposal. Any contract is between you and the contractor.
We don't charge homeowners, don't quote prices, and don't pressure anyone to buy. Take the time you need to compare. If your system has failed completely during extreme heat, say so in the form so the contractor knows it's urgent.
AC Replacement & New Installation FAQs
How many quotes should I get?
Many homeowners get two or three itemized quotes. Compare equipment model numbers, the matched AHRI rating, what's included (pad, line set, drain, thermostat, permit, haul-away), and the labor warranty, not just the total.
Should I replace both units if only one failed?
Not necessarily. If the other system is healthy, many homeowners keep it. Replacing both can make sense if they're the same age and you want matching efficiency or a combined discount.
Do I need a load calculation?
A Manual J load calculation is the right way to size a system. Simply matching the old unit's tonnage can carry forward an old sizing mistake, and oversizing hurts humidity control in Texas.
Do I still have to replace my R-410A system because of the refrigerant change?
No. New equipment has moved to lower-GWP refrigerants, but existing R-410A systems can still be legally serviced. Replace based on condition and age, not because someone says your refrigerant is banned.
Is a permit required?
Many Texas cities require a mechanical permit for HVAC replacement, and rules vary by city and county. The licensed contractor normally pulls it. Ask whether it's included in the quote.