When an air conditioner quits in a Central Texas July, it stops being a convenience problem and becomes a health and comfort problem fast. This page explains what usually goes wrong with residential central air systems, what you can safely check yourself before anyone comes out, and what to expect when a licensed contractor diagnoses the system. When you submit a request, we pass it to an independent HVAC contracting company licensed by the Texas Department of Licensing and Regulation (TDLR). We do not perform the work ourselves.
Common signs your AC needs repair
Most repair calls fall into a handful of patterns. Knowing which one you are seeing helps the technician arrive with the right parts.
- The system runs but the air isn't cold. This can point to low refrigerant from a leak, a failed capacitor that keeps the outdoor fan or compressor from starting, a dirty outdoor coil, or a failing compressor.
- The outdoor unit is silent while the indoor fan runs. Frequent causes are a tripped breaker or disconnect, a failed contactor or capacitor, or a wiring problem at the low-voltage thermostat circuit.
- Ice on the copper line or the indoor coil. Icing usually means restricted airflow (a clogged filter, closed vents, a failing blower) or a low refrigerant charge. Running a frozen system can damage the compressor.
- Water in the attic, closet or ceiling. Air conditioners pull a lot of moisture out of humid air. A clogged condensate drain line or a rusted drain pan can overflow, and in attic installs that can stain or damage ceilings.
- Short cycling. A system that turns on and off every few minutes may be oversized, have a thermostat problem, or be overheating.
- Unusual noises or smells. Grinding, squealing, buzzing, or a burning smell deserve a prompt shutdown and a call.
- Rising electric bills with no change in use. Gradual loss of efficiency is common as coils foul and parts wear.
Safe things to check before you request service
These steps are reasonable for any homeowner and sometimes solve the problem outright:
- Check the thermostat. Make sure it is set to Cool, the set point is below room temperature, and batteries (if it uses them) are fresh.
- Replace the air filter. A badly clogged filter is one of the most common causes of poor cooling and frozen coils.
- Check the breaker panel and the outdoor disconnect. If a breaker has tripped, you can reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off and request service; repeated tripping signals an electrical fault.
- Look at the outdoor unit. Clear away leaves, grass clippings and anything stacked against it. The unit needs room to move air.
- Look for a float switch. Many attic systems have a safety switch that shuts the AC off when the drain pan fills. If the pan is full of water, that's likely why the system stopped.
Avoid opening electrical panels on the equipment, adding refrigerant, or bypassing safety switches. Refrigerant handling legally requires EPA Section 608 certification, and the capacitors inside the outdoor unit can hold a dangerous charge even with the power off.
What a professional diagnosis usually includes
A licensed contractor will typically start by confirming your description of the problem and then work through the system methodically:
- Measuring the temperature difference between return air and supply air.
- Inspecting and testing electrical components such as the capacitor, contactor, fan motors and wiring.
- Checking refrigerant pressures and temperatures to judge whether the charge is correct. If the system is low, the refrigerant went somewhere, so a good technician will talk to you about finding the leak rather than just topping it off repeatedly.
- Inspecting the indoor coil, blower and condensate drain.
- Checking the thermostat and control wiring.
You should get a clear explanation of what failed and the options to fix it before any work begins. Under Texas rules, a licensed contractor's proposals and invoices must show the company's name, address, phone number and the affiliated TDLR license number, along with TDLR's contact information. If you don't see those on your paperwork, ask.
Repair or replace?
There's no single correct answer, and an honest contractor will lay out both options. Factors worth weighing:
- Age of the system. Many residential central systems last somewhere around 12 to 15 years in hot climates, though this varies widely with installation quality and maintenance.
- Refrigerant type. Systems that use R-22 are expensive to recharge because new R-22 production ended in the United States in 2020. Leak repairs on those systems are often a poor long-term investment.
- Cost of the repair versus the value of the system. A small part such as a capacitor or contactor is usually worth replacing on almost any system. A failed compressor or a leaking coil on an older unit is where replacement becomes worth discussing.
- Comfort problems you already had. If some rooms were never comfortable, a replacement can be a chance to fix duct and sizing issues too.
If you're leaning toward replacement, see our AC installation and replacement guide.
Why Central Texas is hard on air conditioners
Summers in this region are long and hot. The National Weather Service's 1991–2020 normals for Austin's Camp Mabry station put the normal August high at 97.8°F, with nearly every August day at or above 90°F. Equipment here runs long hours from late spring well into fall, which wears motors, contactors and capacitors faster than in milder climates. Many homes in the area also have air handlers and ducts in the attic, where summer temperatures can be far higher than outdoors, which adds stress to equipment and makes duct leaks more costly. Regular maintenance catches many of these problems before they become no-cool calls.
What to have ready when you request service
- The town and general area you're in (we serve the communities listed here).
- What the system is doing: no cooling, weak cooling, noise, water, ice, breaker trips.
- The approximate age of the system if you know it. The outdoor unit's data plate usually lists a manufacture date or a serial number that encodes it.
- Whether anyone in the home is especially vulnerable to heat. If so, say so. That helps the contractor prioritize, and if the situation is dangerous, see our emergency HVAC page.
How a request works
- You fill out the short form below with your contact details, town, and what's going on.
- We forward the request to an independent, licensed, insured HVAC contractor that serves your area.
- The contractor contacts you directly to schedule, diagnose and quote. Any agreement for work is between you and that contractor.
We don't charge homeowners for this service. We don't set prices, and we won't promise arrival times we can't control. The contractor will give you their own scheduling and pricing.
Staying safe in the heat while you wait
If your home is warming up, close blinds on sun-facing windows, run ceiling fans, stay hydrated, and avoid using the oven. If indoor temperatures become dangerous for elderly people, infants, or anyone with health conditions, go somewhere cool. Many cities open cooling centers during heat advisories. In a medical emergency, call 911.
AC Repair FAQs
Should I repair or replace my AC?
It depends mostly on the system's age, the size of the repair, and how often it has needed work. A newer system with an isolated failure such as a capacitor or fan motor is usually worth repairing. An older system facing a compressor, coil or repeat refrigerant repair is where many homeowners compare a replacement quote.
Is it normal for a technician to push replacement right away?
Some companies lead with replacement, especially on older equipment. You can ask for a repair-only quote and the diagnosis behind it. Getting a second opinion on any large repair or replacement is common and reasonable.
Why is my upstairs unit the one that keeps struggling?
Upstairs systems in two-story Texas homes deal with heat rising from below and hot attic temperatures above, so they often run harder. Ductwork in the attic and undersized returns can make it worse.
How much does AC repair cost?
We're a referral service, so prices come from the contractor, not us. Cost depends on the part, labor and refrigerant involved. A licensed contractor should explain the diagnosis and give you the price before starting work.
Can I replace a capacitor myself?
Parts are sold online, but capacitors can hold a dangerous charge and the outdoor unit runs on 240 volts. A wrong part can also damage the compressor. We recommend having a licensed technician do it.